How to train for outdoor climbing reddit. This means you might have to climb with slightly sore .

How to train for outdoor climbing reddit. Then for 9 months I was training in a rope gym, but also got hooked on outdoor sport climbing. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Dedicated to increasing all our… Apr 25, 2023 · This training method helps to minimize training plateaus and risk of injury 5. Hi all, I am in a common dilemma where I have a trip planned to summit Mt. I will be climbing indoor M-W-F and will be adjusting according to my outdoor climbing (ex: no climbing on F if I’m climbing on S) A full training session will consist of 1-2 repeater set (mostly for maintenance), then lead climbing (more on this in the next section) and then 3 supersets of supplementary exercises (again for maintenance). Reddit's rock climbing training community. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. I do tend to think of gym climbing solely as preparation for outdoor climbing, and focus mainly on things like endurance and strength training. 2x a week core + strength workouts where I focus on legs and pull up strength (weighted pull ups for sets of 1-3 max) followed by 20-40 minutes of cardio For several years of climbing, I fell into the habit of only training my strengths (technical/vertical/static climbing) and avoiding my weaknesses (generating power on overhanging terrain). Sport climbing is inefficient training. Here's everything you need to know. Training boards and spray walls are much better preparation for outdoor climbing than the average boulder you'll find in a gym. Mar 7, 2022 · Climbing gyms are great. Climb consistently to build up a base level of forearm endurance and recovery. 10 on gear, which is good for At your climbing and training age, the two things I'd recommend are pull up progressions, and ab work of your choice. Here are some of the best workouts for climbers and boulderers. Given the convenience of my gym versus the effort of driving and weather considerations for outdoor climbs, what would be an effective split? The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. We've built a performance model around weekend warriors living in cities with relatively poor outdoor climbing availability. During the week I train twice in an indoor climbing gym while the entire weekends are devoted on outdoor sport climbing. Like masturbation, “training” offers controlled results without the stress of real world Climbing is a skill sport more than a strength sport. 5 and 3 hours on working days. I'm thinking of getting back into climbing shape by weight lifting in the gym about 3 days a week, and by trying to climb 1-2 times a week if I can and hangboarding whenever I can't. You can climb and train assistance on the same day effectively. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. But I think if you spend a lot of time climbing outside, separate ropes is a more comfortable arrangement. I can't train by climbing too frequently since the closest gym is pretty far, and it's actually an outdoor wall by the coast so it gets rained out a lot. Aug 3, 2021 · To make this workout more challenging after a month of consistent training, try adding a weight vest or 15- to 20-lb. I've been getting into climbing for a month or two now. As per the article, you don't need much space to have a dense set of problems that offer good training. There is definitely some good in sport climbing in the gym if you need to work on clipping and lead head but if you have a solid base in that then bouldering, power endurance and then some base aerobic training should be more than enough. My nearest climbing gym is 2 hours away. You could put a couple of yoga bricks under your front wheel to simulate the position. Work towards one I’ve (34F) been climbing for about 18 months now (mostly sport with a little indoor bouldering), and have recently started to really try to work my weaknesses to open up more outdoor route possibilities for myself. I am still improving though, becoming a 7B+ climber by just doing 67 votes, 58 comments. Training takes place in a relatively simple, temperature-controlled box, where effort in equals measurable gains out. Any training tips (aside from doing more climbing of course) ? Outdoor routes that are that consistent are rare. Been climbing for almost 4 years. There are many who feel that competition climbing has become a distinct entity from outdoor climbing, to the point where it can be viewed as a sport within itself due to the implementation of Tips for a newbie with lead climbing / climbing outdoors - confidence and technique I am relatively new to climbing, and recently went on a trip with my local climbing group to try outdoor climbing for the first time. Stop top roping and always lead (and lead at least once a week or so) and it will improve pretty quickly. Or is there specific value to the structure of bouldering circuits and the like? So now I'm training 4-5 times a week, doing the things every sport climber should do (a lot of climbing, hangboard training, antagonist, core training and etc). I train following the book training for the new alpinism it's might be overkill for just climbing but it's whipped me into shape helping me build upper body endurance. 5-3 hours on training days, 6-8 hours outside (but not a ton more actual climbing time) V6 short project, V7 occasionally, V8-V9 limit projects. MembersOnline • Remyrue ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Should I still force myself to train in bouldering/climbing indoors, in order to climb mountains such as Mont Blanc, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Denali, Mt. My question is, how can I improve my Hikers with gym memberships, what exercises do you do to support your hiking fitness (or to train for other related outdoor activities)? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve looked into periodized training a little , but with unpredictable outdoor climbing dates and sometimes my own unpredictable schedule, I don’t really know how to make make the different training blocks work for me . But from my experience with other hobbies I wouldn't be surprised The secret to climbing is that you're always throwing away energy preventing yourself from rolling backwards down the hill, so it doesn't take a lot of extra power to really bump up the speed. Camp in the winter. I don't think any of the boards prepare you particularly well for the technical side of outdoor climbing, weird body positions, heel/toe hooks, etc etc. However, currently I am in horrific shape. Plan to move into outdoor trad climbing. Smooth and controlled climbing is efficient climbing. I am planning on getting more exercise into my routine and going for runs, but is there anything that would help me more? Reddit's rock climbing training community. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. Prioritize outdoor climbing always over everything considering it is often wet out. An at home training program without climbing specific facilities (walls, hangboard, campus board, or at least a bar) or weights that will translate directly to climbing harder grades isn't possible. But, I think they can prepare you well for pulling hard, big moves on bad holds and so that should be what you're trying to improve when you climb on a training board. Trying to minmax my training sessions and push into v5/v6 and was wondering if it may be beneficial to spend more time board climbing if I want to spend more time on the wall while trying to get stronger? Thoughts about how useful training on a spray wall would be as a primary training tool since I know a lot of people are in the 'just climb' camp to get better at climbing. Personally i find i can train more specifically indoors. In climbing you hold slopers with the friction between your fingers and the contact surface, “soft” elbows, and engaged shoulders and back muscles. Jun 27, 2022 · Climbing requires good cardio, strength, and endurance. Getting heavier over the winter training period while mainly bouldering and developing strength has quite a long lasting tradition. I booked a Kilimanjaro expedition for next year. For pullups, you can start by using a band or pulley system to remove weight, or by working the negative (aka start with your chin on the bar, and try to lower yourself slowly). A large percentage of the outdoor routes in my area are at least slightly overhanging, and overhang seems to be my biggest weakness. r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. That usually means I get 2-3 years use on the rope outdoor then another 2 years or so on it indoor before it gets retired. Maybe I'm also crusty but I don't like how little modern setting mirrors outdoor climbing, fun as it is. Spend as much time as possible challenging yourself in the outdoors, and focus heavily on how to manage the risks that come with it all. 12+ outdoor climber and maybe a 5. When I lived in the city this was the best I could do to saty fit and prepared to hike on weekends. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. Otherwise, currently I tend to do pinch training on a non-climbing evening followed by some basic dumbbell work. Aug 23, 2022 · Learning to lead climb means memorizing a system AND accumulating fluency and trust in that system. Nov 14, 2022 · Training is easy. Most outdoor route have easy sections, cruxes, and rests. Oct 18, 2024 · Learn why strength training is great for climbers, with a complete 14-week training program to improve your climbing performance. Therefore I've got some pretty good grip strength but just after a challenging route or two I'm seriously out of power and struggling with the easiest of routes. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. That allows me to do many other things with my life, but still enjoy hard climbing. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. I want to train to become stronger at these routes but most of my gym climbs are usually with big volumes and slopey pinches. Whether your climbs are a couple minutes or a couple hours, they will be overwhelmingly aerobic, so anything that builds your aerobic engine will help your climbing. It's a big investment sink for anyone, considering that climbing is a hobby and stress relief. What benefits do you see in such training? Is it a good option to give tendons, joints, or muscles some rest? The spray wall I train on is relatively steep at 52 degrees and the climbing style outdoors here is often overhanging thuggy sandstone so sometimes the style of training and climbing that I do leaves me wary of climbing two days in a row due to overall fatigue. So the question of if I should build my own climbing wall comes up. Jan 25, 2022 · Download the app. Off the Wall/Training/Recovery To reiterate: the best training for climbing is climbing. The better we can simulate that experience, the better our training will transfer to the rock. For the past 9 months I’ve still been sport climbing outside but I’ve been training in a bouldering gym (mix of kilterboard and set boulders). For me, im at 7B now slowely breaking into 7B+ and i feel like it is becoming harder to keep progressing by just climbing. This means you might have to climb with slightly sore Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm rarely too sore to climb. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I understand a lot of this comes down to experience, and as I spend more time outside those numbers will probably merge. But in your personal experience, how do climbing grades indoor compare to climbing grades outdoor? What are the best bouldering apps? Do they serve different purposes? Curious to see what people use and why. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. MembersOnline • Nandor1262 ADMIN MOD Train wrist extensors. You don't need a training plan specific to climbing, because the fitness demands for climbing aren't really any different from other aspects of cycling fitness. TLDR; I love mountaineering, but I don't like bouldering and I am not convinced by rock climbing. Training for roped climbing by just roped climbing is much higher time commitment to progress ratio I believe. Learn to ice climb. Jul 18, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. We've decided we would like to actually try outdoor climbing, but neither of us has a good idea where to start. Where do you live? That will determine what the most accessible ways into mountaineering are. In this post I will The simplest answer is, at some point down the road, climbing will hurt your weight training and/or weight training will hurt your climbing. Climbing certainly has more of a skill component than "pure" strength/fitness sports, like weightlifting or running. Little background Anecdotal but the strongest sport climbers I know just boulder in the gym then work some endurance in before the outdoor season. Learn the gear and skills you need to enjoy bouldering, sport climbing and trad climbing outdoors. The pull-ups help to develop that overall power, and the campus board trains more explosive power and immediate recruitment. For this reason, even if your style of climbing is power-oriented, it would not be the smartest decision to intensely train power year-round. It can directly improve your outdoor riding if you’re continuing to follow a plan and being consistent with training. As far as a home workout goes, check out r/bodyweightfitness, with extra focus on core. Outdoor climbing is of course very different than gym climbing, but if you at the very least get comfortable on top-rope and belaying, and ideally learn to lead, you'll have a good foundation for outdoor climbing. But you can also train for climbing by climbing outside. Since altitude sickness is not well understood, It's hard to find good research on specific training methods. MembersOnline • crimpy_thang ADMIN MOD Climbing day - goof around, clean up my moves on routes I'm comfortable with, little challenge Off day - rest, take my dogs on a short run, yoga Climbing day - project again Lifting day - train core and legs Climbing day - have fun Off day Repeat Just recently started climbing and this schedule has worked great for me. Rainer, or Elbrus? Training beta podcast with the lattice climbing guys talks about training that can be done at home with small amounts of time. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. Reply reply The Reddit's rock climbing training community. So just have fun and get up as many routes/boulders as you can. I have a very different take on this. Other than that, climbing is power to weight ratio dependent and if you want sustained climbing, it is also about threshold and the ability Reddit's rock climbing training community. I usually only have enough time to go about 1 day a week. The pacing of outdoor sport climbing is much easier to simulate on a bouldering wall. Currently at V4 and 5. However, living down here, the gym really is all we have without having to sacrifice a 9 hour drive somewhere. So I've bouldering for two years and only started sport climbing recently. However, I’m already doing 3 multi hour sessions of indoor climbing + 1 day of outside sport climbing a week. Training Split: I'm unsure how to balance my gym sessions with outdoor climbing. I don't see why gyms can't have both - give me an ugly spraywall and a couple system boards in one area and keep your big volume holds in another. Real climbing is messy: Partners, temperatures, technique, and a thousand other variables conspire to make the outcomes far less predictable. But if you want to push yourself on a training board, you're not going to work on any project problems that day. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. My girlfriend and I have been climbing indoors pretty regularly for the last three years. I want to ask what should i increment in my training and what should i remove to build a base for the long days in the mountains? Running? Cycling? Hiking? 39 votes, 49 comments. I’m comfortable leading low 5. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. Having 1 rope for indoor and outdoor if you do t climb much outside is fine too. I’m going to be doing an incline next month with over 2000 stairs up and then 5k down on a trail around Christmas. And if you wind up eyeballing glacier skills, having fundamental rope skills down rock-solid is a way better start than from-scratch. Here are eight tips from veteran crusher Chris Schulte. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. If you can consistently boulder v3/v4 outdoors you should be more than strong enough to navigate any crux climbing on 5. 2. Hey everyone, I'd like to known how you guys personally train for big climbs, or hiking in general. This climb is a life goal of mine; I’ve been dreaming about it for years. I recently started kilterboard sessions and I have to admit I really like it. There are 3 guide services IIRC, I used Alpine Ascents Train more than you think you have to I just wonder, what are you really training for? Do you hope to move out one day to an area with more climbing? Do you plan to go on a climbing trip? Because if I’m honest, for however much I love climbing, I wouldn’t train for climbing if I wasn’t actually climbing, finding another sport or just doing calisthenics might end up being better. You could do something similar to what Emil talks about in this video at 7:20. Another option is to reduce or eliminate the rest break at the top to increase the workout intensity. My question is how hard will climbing Mont Blanc be and how much training is needed. In addition to campus bouldering, I have found weighted pull-ups and ladders or max reaches on the campus board to be helpful. I went outdoor climbing for the first time last weekend and really struggled to sink into the smaller crimped holds. A lot of the strength and endurance required for climbing is unique to climbing and difficult to get from other sports. Why do people like reading fiction but not research books? Same thing. Only Board Climbing? Anyone here done all their climbing on a moonboard or some other training board for a sustained period? (Not Including hangboarding, antagonistic training etc) What were your results? Goals and Training Needs: Goal: Climb V10 outdoors, with the same 80% completion rule. The thing is most alpinism fitness training programs I’ve looked into require around 3-4 days/week of cardio and strength training, each session being several hours long. Any tips for training for that? Reddit's rock climbing training community. They're more about raw strength and coordination, which will translate better outdoors. Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. Climbing is hard. Hard outdoor climbing is a mix where reading the rock is most important, then technique, then endurance, and finally power. I take a very systemised approach and probably only put in 4-6 hours training a week. 11s on slab Reddit's rock climbing training community. I feel like many climbs are set to "be cool" whereas much of my outdoor climbing is just crimp laddering and slow static movements. When outdoors, you will be coasting and stopping at junctions and light's etc. r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. Train your scapula. This complete eight-phase training series will coach you through specific workouts based on periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak climbing performance on the rock and in the gym. What's your method? In my case there's quite a lot of weekend hiking, combined with running and a lot of climbing stairs. You don’t want your hand to tilt backwards when you’re on slopers. Whitney, but live near sea level. You could call this bulk and cut. 11 gym climber, the two don’t translate 1:1. backpack if you are training for an upcoming trip. When you feel comfortable with classic mountaineering you can start rock climbing in order to train for more technical summits, usually the ones involving long glaciated approaches and several pitches of ice climbing like Puntiagudo or Corcovado. Just have fun on the wall! You don't need to hangboard! Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you really want to improve fast, spend you time bouldering focusing on moving efficiently and fluidly. Just moved to Knoxville and looking for climbing partner for indoor and outdoor. 9 I might take a fall or two. From what I have read raising your VO2 Max, and training your muscles for climbing steep grades both help, especially the VO2 Max. Thanks for the reply. What would you experienced climbers recommend as a good fitness plan? Since I live in NYC, most of my training will have to happen at a gym. You will gain strength while practicing climbing skill, but you won’t gain climbing skill through physical training. Most gym climbing I’ve been to is focused around strength endurance. How often can you climb? Workout? Bodyweight? Weights? Fingerboard? Basically. Focus on placing your feet quietly and accurately on holds. Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). So I get to go 1-2 times a month. In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. Dec 16, 2023 · Have you been wanting to go outdoor rock climbing? Here's how to go from the climbing gym to the crag in 2024. If your goals are outdoor performance, there is no better technique training than outdoor climbing. If I had outside climbing as close as my local gym (10-20 min depending on traffic) I’d hardly ever climb inside. I mostly boulder at the First Ascent gyms in Chicago, but my interest in outdoor climbing and roped climbing is growing. Fancy definitions aside periodization is a way to set up your training to maximize your gains and avoid plateaus and overuse injuries. Have bouldering pad, ropes and sport climbing gear. Jun 9, 2022 · Whether you're a training newbie or have been campusing for years, these climbing-specific training methods will help you send your project and improve overall. They can flash everything in my gym. Make your reservations right when they release the dates (summer / fall the year before). what does your climbing and/or athletic schedule look like? Been ramping up the efforts and want to see how sane my ideas are. That means that outdoor sport climbing has skills that are difficult to train on an indoor lead wall. Climbing slower, overgripping, second guessing clipping positions etc. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. A Guide to Periodization for Climbing (avoiding plataeus and overtraining) Periodization - the application of planned phase changes and cycles in training to drive physical and metabolic change while reducing the likelyhood of overtraining. What kind of training can I do at home with limited equipment (pullup bar and dumbells)? I've been doing pullups and half crimp static hangs so far. Climbing outdoors on real rock is a rush. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. Saturday is power endurance. Climbing in the gym is an incredibly efficient way to get fit and strong, but not particularly efficient for getting up hard climbs outside. Safe to say, I have mixed feelings about it now. When top roping I can usually completely a 10d in one try, but outside a 5. This way you'll improve the fat burning and aerobic capacity by walking, but incorporating the anaerobic climbing sessions. When it comes to training power endurance, one often get recommended exercises like 4x4 bouldering and other types of circuits. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. And of course, actual ascents (I live quite close to the mountains in my area) I'm curious what other methods people use. I know from personal experience the problems one can encounter from altitude sickness, and was wondering if anyone has any tips/advice on how to train altitude when there are no mountains above 4000 feet from me within several hours. Do smart trainers give a realistic feeling when climbing? And is there a big difference between a smart wheel on trainer vs direct drive specifically when climbing? What would you recommend for absolute beginners (less than a month climbing)? Is focusing on improving holds and getting your body into shape a better approach than just sending boulders until you improve? From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. MembersOnline • HarryCaul ADMIN MOD Walking every day at least one hour Finding a building and climbing the stairs a few times per week. Climbing mt rainier (edit with a guide) doesn’t require experience but strong physical fitness is a must as well as $2500 or so for guide and rental equip. To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. My outdoor 'training rides' always go out the window because i just enjoy riding my bike on the road too much to hold back on a nice 3 times a week in the gym, one full day outside on weekends for a total of 4 days. Indoor climbing is the training to keep you in shape for outdoor climbing. I have about 10 months to prepare, so plenty of time to get my butt in shape. Second the pinch training at the start of a session. I typically do more zone 2 in the winter because my tempo rides are less fun on a trainer. Hi fellow rock warriors, I have been climbing for about 2+ years (outdoor sport climbing max grade 7b, onsighting 6c+/7a). MembersOnline • Hithers56 ADMIN MOD Im interested what the grade point was for different people when just climbing a lot wasn't enough to keep progressing anymore and you actually had to start training for it in order to keep getting better. MembersOnline • thinkingwithfractals I think with indoor training it is considered more effective because 100% of the time spent on the bike you are pedalling. Sep 30, 2023 · Often it is the awkward nature of climbing positions and not the holds themselves that makes outdoor climbing so tough. Looking for experiences of those who built a home climbing wall. . But wouldn't the optimal training be to climb a consistent powerful endurance route that one isn't able to do. Any advice on other excercises I should add to my routine that would help with grip strength and climbing in general? As a 5. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. I live regionally but there's no established outdoor climbing spots here & I'm not experienced enough to go find my own. A climbing gym is good training for rock/ice climbing, but that’s only a piece of mountaineering as a whole. Climbing at the gym is a great place to start and learn technique, but Alpinism is about sooooo much more than just technique. After a bad experience with altitude sickness, I have started training for altitude. Between 2. These training exercises for rock climbing and bouldering will help you build strength and improve balance. Approach slopers in that way and you might see improvement. The lead routes are extremely overhanging. Good read actually. Strong extensors are responsible for fighting that. 10c top rope. Climbing is much more about movement skills and techniques than about pure power. It all depends on what you want. I think the value of gym settings for high level climbers is training dynamic competition style climbing under onsight conditions, which can't be set on a spray wall and translates directly to competitions. Are you talking about real life climbing? Real life climbing is also related with a slightly different position and often a bit lower cadence, specifically steep climbs. So I am doing lots of stair stepper and interval training (30/30's etc Premise With the explosion of growth in the general climbing scene and the evolution of competition climbing in recent years, there is a growing divide between ardent supporters of each discipline. Welcome to Climbing’s yearlong Training Bible. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. I am trying to change that, and looking for input on how to start training power and contact strength when I am essentially starting from scratch. zhbz ucuyz rzybow qdxfi intiym idxhyxa soiuv zfkkxg ozid rmght